In winter, chilly evenings provide an excuse to eat a soup of vegetables and walnuts with a generous drizzling of walnut oil, and the celebrated daube niçoise, a long-cooked beef stew whose leftovers (if there are any) are used to stuff the local ravioli —Nice was part of Italy until the 19th century. It’s also a time for salted fish such as salt cod and stockfish, sold already soaked in some of the Vieux Nice’s traditional shops. At Christmas, salt cod is served with aïoli and an array of vegetables, followed by a traditional spread of 13 desserts. The Carnival, which allows the Niçois to let loose before Lent, parades through the streets of the Vieux Nice in February, attracting many thousands of visitors. Menton celebrates its lemon harvest the same month.

Les Petits Farcis sample winter menu:

• Tian de blettes (Swiss chard gratin with egg and cheese)
• Daube niçoise* (Niçois beef stew)
• Mesclun salad
• Tourte de brousse (Double-crusted cheesecake)