The producers at the Cours Saleya were understandably suspicious at first of a foreigner who dares to teach Niçois cooking. But my constant presence at the market, enthusiasm for the local produce and loyalty to the small producers has convinced them over time that I am a true Niçois at heart. Many of the producers have invited me to their farms, which is what gave me the idea for the Meet the Producers tours.
Just beyond Nice the land becomes rugged and mountainous, making the producers’ task a challenging one. The scenery is some of the most breathtaking on the Côte d’Azur, yet this is not an area that most tourists would explore on their own as the villages are so remote and tiny. Depending on your interests, we might:
- Visit a 17th century olive mill, then head up to an olive farm to taste organic oils, olive pastes and tapenade made from the local Niçois olives
- See dozens of varieties of citrus fruits at a garden run by a former Formula One race car driver in Menton.
- Meet a farmer who produces traditional nougats, jams and fruit syrups, all with his own fruit.
- Gape at the 80 organic tomato varieties grown in the hills of Bellet, and sample the little-known wine from that same region.
The tour runs from 9.30am-6pm and costs 290 euros per person (discounts are available for groups of four or more). This price includes transport in a comfortable vehicle, all visits and tastings, and a three-course lunch at a country auberge. A day normally includes visits to two farms and one vineyard. With my husband driving, I'm free to act as the tour guide and answer any questions you might have about the area and its food. Weekdays are preferable, as most of the producers come to the market on weekends. A maximum of seven people can be accommodated on this tour.
Wine tours in the Nice back country
There is more to wine on the Riviera than rosé! Wine lovers can spend half a day with us discovering the unique whites, reds and rosés of the Nice back country. As with the food producers, we visit only winemakers who are passionate about what they do and work with few or no chemicals.
- The Bellet vineyards: Experience France's smallest AOC wine region, which the winemakers here believe is also the oldest wine-producing area in France. We'll visit two small producers who put all their knowledge, skill and passion into growing obscure grape varieties such as braquet and folle noire, which have notoriously unpredictable yields. You'll taste whites, reds and rosés, see the spectacular terraced vineyards just 20 minutes from the center of Nice and have an opportunity to buy wines to take home or enjoy during your stay.
- St-Jeannet: This town near St-Paul de Vence does not have an AOC, but that doesn't stop its winemakers from producing some of the area's most exceptional wine. We'll visit a winemaker who uses Roman methods to produce red, white and rosé which are prized by local sommeliers, and enjoy a two-hour tasting in the vineyard.
Cost: 150 euros per person, including transport and tastings.
"I just wanted to take a minute and let you know what a special day Alyssa and I had with you in Nice. Beginning with the coffee at La Civette and finishing with the lemon tart, the day was perfect. Thank you for planning a memorable experience (in your authentic home, no less) and giving us some valuable cooking techniques and recipes from this special region in France."
Gayle Pratt, Texas
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